---

Most snowbirds traveling to Mexico treat their seasonal affective disorder and vitamin D deficiency by visiting the resort centres of Cancun, Manzanillo and Acapulco so they can lie on the beach and soak up the sun. However, if you are fretting about skin cancer and sunstroke, don't want to sweat all day and would like to have a taste of real Mexico, then you might want to consider visiting Colima. 

Colima is a tiny state an hour's ride north of Manzanillo in the centre of Western Mexico. Here you will discover a variety of landscapes, including tropical lagoons near the Pacific Coast and two lofty volcanoes in the north. 

Endless coconut forests, fruit trees, coffee and sugar plantations line the road from Manzanillo to the city of Colima. Known as the "city of palm trees," it was conquered by the Spanish in the 16th century. Like most Mexican cities, there is a large square at its centre where you can see the influence of the Colonial invaders. There is a beautiful garden, the Jardin Libertad, and a gorgeous gazebo brought from Belgium in 1891 occupying the middle of the square. Main roads surround the square and traffic zooms past.

Also typical of Mexican cities, the central square is bordered by a beautiful neo-classic cathedral with a bell tower, which chimes every 15 minutes starting at 6:30 a.m. This was the only disadvantage of staying in the classic Hotel Ceballos just across the road. It was lucky that I had to get up early that morning so the bell- ringing served as a wake-up call. Otherwise, the gong would have been a nuisance.

The Cellabos Hotel has well-designed, clean, high-ceilinged rooms with French doors opening onto small balconies. Be sure to stay at this elegant romantic hotel and get a room that overlooks the square. It might be a little noisy, but you are right in the hub of the town, surrounded by all the sights.

Across from the hotel and next to the cathedral is the Government Palace, an elegant neo-classic fortress with beautiful fresco murals by Chavez Carillo. On the opposite corner to the palace is the Regional History Museum, which tells the tale of the native civilization of Western Mexico before the Spanish arrived. There is a shaft tomb, which houses the enchanting pottery and artifacts of the native people.

My companion and I were lucky to be in Colima in February at the time of two festivals. Feb. 24 is Mexico's flag day, and I watched as a solemn ceremony took place in the square. One by one, people walked up to the flag and saluted with their outstretched palm held against their heart.

I often wondered why Mexico chose this flag as their official emblem. Morelos, one of the leaders of the movement to become independent from Spain in 1812, used a flag with an eagle standing sideways on a bridge with three arches. On Feb. 24, 1821, Augustin de Iturbide issued the Plan de Iguala called the Three Guarantees. He called for a guarantee of freedom, equality and peace. The flag had three colours in diagonal stripes: white for purity of the Roman Catholic religion, green for the insurrection movement and red for the group of Spaniards supporting independence. When the rebel army entered Mexico City and independence was declared on Nov. 2, 1821, the flag had the three colours as well as an eagle. It wasn't until 1916 that the flag Mexico has today was issued with the three vertical colours, eagle sideways with a serpent in its mouth and laurel beneath it. 

The other festival that was being celebrated was the Ferias Charro-Taurinas San Felipe de Jesus. For 15 days, at around noon, hundreds of men on horseback gather at the Cathedral. They ride through town preceded by huge figurine puppets, a huge passive bull and a large parade of musicians. These cowboys ride about five kilometres to the town of Villa de Alvarez, where there is music, dancing, rodeos and even bullfights. This fun-filled event stopped traffic. The highlight for me was when my wife, Bonnie, climbed up on the huge bull and rode it through the streets and over to the cathedral. Everyone cheered while I was busy snapping photos.

If you like Mexican dancing, then don't miss the colourful and spirited Ballet Folklorico de la Universidad de Colima, performed by an exciting group of musicians, singers and dancers. It was performed nightly at the 19th-century classic Teatro Hidalgo in Colima.

I was most touched by the Museo Universitario Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo, located in the village of Nogueros. Alejandro was a famous Mexican painter whose designs I had seen on the Unicef greeting cards I have been buying for years.

He was truly a man of peace and talent. He donated his home to the university to preserve the extensive collection of pottery he and others saved. Apparently, fearing government officials would loot the pottery, he hid the pieces underground for years. Then, when the time was right and he felt the university could be trusted to preserve and safeguard the art, he began digging up the pottery and hand-cleaning the pieces himself. 

I have seen displays of pottery in Europe, China and all through Asia, but I do not remember a more intricate, sophisticated and visually pleasing style of pottery than the one displayed here. The true artistic genius of the man is the way he exhibited the works. His use of cubes, colour and arrangements complemented the pieces and brought them to life. I felt emotion overtake me when I realized how old these works of art were and how much love and energy went into creating, preserving and showing them. I felt like crying in awe.

The potters left me with an appreciation for this ancient civilization and their everyday life. I could see their dress, their recreational life, their utensils and most important, their relationship with their dogs. The hairless, fat, dancing dogs are famous and are often reproduced as a symbol of the pottery of the region.

The faces of the people portrayed on the pottery were filled with joy and pain. They told a story of a civilization with high esthetic values. These were far from primitive people.

One particularly touching display was of people with medical deformities. In one display case, Hidalgo arranged statues of people with Down syndrome, cleft palate, neural tube defect and clubfoot. The way these people were sculpted reflected a civilization that did not scorn people who were disabled or different. The small statues were fondly representing almost an acceptance and appreciation of nature's genetic flaws.

West Mexico's Prehispanic culture shared many traits common with other Mesoamerican cultures. Stepped platform pyramids, sunken courts, raised house platforms and ball courts all share similarities with other cultures like the Aztecs, Mayan and Tlaxcalan cultures encountered by the Spanish. It is only in the last number of years that archeologists have uncovered shaft tombs that were dug into soil or cut into soft rock to depths of up to 18 metres. The range of goods found in the graves varies from ceramic vessels that were used in everyday life to the hollow figurines housed in this museum. Some of the archaeological findings show a culture existed between 1000 BC and 300 BC. 

La Campana archaeological zone is an extensive site with approximately 50 structures and 15 plazas all joined by boulevards. The rain drainage system of stone canals covered with earthen planks is an example of the high technology of the inhabitants. There are also the famous shaft tombs, which are deep, vertical, circular tunnels that open to a large domed crypt where the dead and their pottery offerings were buried.

Also close to Colima is the extensive El Chanal archaeological zone, which features structures built initially in 1300 BC. The inhabitants used smooth, round pebbles and carved stone on its staircases. The sites are empty of any tourists and you can roam around, climb the structures and visit the sites. Walking through the area gives a sense of what it must have been like before the Spaniards came. 

The southern area of the state of Colima is formed by more than 100 kilometres of long golden beaches. Most tourist stay at the luxurious Manzanillo resorts. However, there are many little towns all along the coast, which are less expensive and undeveloped. The small resort town of Cuyutlan is situated about an hour's drive from the town of Colima. The San Rafael Hotel is a neat, clean, friendly spot situated right on the beach.

Also in Cuyutlan is the Tortuguero Turtle Camp and Educational Ecological Centre. Its main purpose is to educate children about turtles, iguanas and marine life facing extinction. The staff of this centre collects turtle eggs that have been deposited on the beaches all along the coast. They bring them to the camp so they can be protected from poachers and animals of prey. Here, they are sheltered until they hatch.

Whether you spend a day visiting the state of Colima from your all-inclusive resort at Manzanillo or choose to make Colima your holiday headquarters, you will be captured by the untouched beauty of the land and the friendliness of the people.

Mel Borins is a family doctor, freelance writer and author of the book Go Away Just For the Health of It, about the benefits of vacations. (melborins.com)